In this guide we’ll look at the best budget mitre saws.
We’ve compared power, blade size, cutting capacity and cost
to give you our top recommendations.
What Is The Best Budget Mitre Saw?
More Detailed Budget Mitre Saw Reviews
Evolution Power Tools R210CMS 1200 W Compound Mitre Saw With Multi-Material Cutting and 210 mm blade
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Evolution Power Tools R210CMS 1200 W Compound Mitre Saw With Multi-Material Cutting and 210 mm blade Review
The Evolution Power Tools R210CMS Compound Mitre Saw is our choice for best budget mitre saw.
This is a compact and portable sliding mitre saw. It has a 1200-Watt motor that powers a 210 mm blade that can cut through not only wood and plastic, but other tough materials such as steel, aluminium and even wood with embedded nails, and produce clean cuts that require little if any finishing. You can even separately purchase a diamond blade that can cut through tile, stone and slate.
This versatile mitre saw that can cut to a width of 125 mm and depth of 55 mm. In conjunction with the rotating base the head can tilt to create a range of angles to cut bevels and mitre cuts from 0 to 45 degrees. To ensure accuracy there is a top clamp and an adjustable sliding fence.
The 24-tooth blade is tipped with premium quality Japanese tungsten carbide, and the product comes with a very respectable 3-year warranty.
If you are looking for a high quality, versatile but cheap mitre saw the R210CMS fits the bill.
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Einhell UK TC-MS 2112 1600 W Compound Mitre Saw with 210 mm blade Review
This saw has a 1,500 Watt motor producing 5000 rpm which makes it suitable for cutting a wide range of materials including hardwoods. The included blade is robust and has 48 teeth, so it creates clean cuts that need little finishing. The saw is perfect for cutting wood and plastics. The 210 mm blade can cut particleboard up to 200 mm thick with ease.
The saw has a wide range of settings and good rotational options. It can be angled to cut bevels easily, and the table moves to cut mitre joints up to 45 degrees. These settings can be used in combination to cut bevelled mitre joints.
To finish, this saw has some excellent added features that make using the tool easy and enjoyable. The simple dust extraction collects the dust and keeps your lungs and workshop clean. It also has two clamps and good supports to ensure your piece stays in the correct position.
Thanks to its power and flexibility, topped off by its useful usability features, this offers an excellent, low-cost mitre saw that can cope with a wide range of tasks.
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VonHaus 1400W Mitre Saw with 210 mm blade Review
The VonHaus 1400W Mitre Saw is a good option if you require a powerful, adjustable saw that has an excellent build quality.
This mitre saw has a 1,400 Watt motor powering the blade at an impressive 5000 rpm. This speed enables the saw to cut through a wide range of materials, including softer metals.
Cutting bevels is easy with the provided indicators for bevel angles of 15°, 22.5°, 30° and 45°. There are also singular angle points, on both the left and right sides of the blade, offering a full range of movement.
The saw comes with a 24 tooth blade and a dust bag and is backed by a 2-year warranty
Overall, if you require a powerful, adjustable saw that is robust and durable, this is a great choice.
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Silverline 262705 1400W Compound Mitre Saw with 210 mm blade Review
The Silverline 1400W Mitre Saw makes a good choice thanks to its powerful motor, adjustability and included extras.
This option has a 1,400 Watt motor which provides enough power to cut through materials such as hardwood or soft metal easily.
The mitre saw is adjustable to allow you to cut bevels and mitre joints up to 45 degrees. It has a maximum crosscut of 120 mm x 50 mm.
The saw comes with a clamp, dust bag, rear stabilizer and a high-performance blade.
Overall, this mitre saw is powerful, versatile and easy to use.
Mitre Saw Buyer’s Guide
How does a Mitre Saw differ from other types of power saw?
A mitre saw is one of several different types of power saw. The other main types are the table saw, circular saw, band saw and jigsaw. Let’s have a quick look at the basic differences between these saws.
The table saw is the largest type of power saw and you offer up your job to a circular spinning blade. The largest varieties are stationary– the cabinet saw is literally housed in a cabinet and the blade protrudes through the table top. Smaller table saws are portable and come on stands or are benchtop versions. These saws can accommodate large work pieces and are best for rip cuts.
Circular saws are portable and extremely versatile. They can perform all cuts, but unlike the table saw you offer up the saw’s spinning circular blade to the work piece.
Jigsaws are also portable and versatile, but instead of using a circular blade they have a narrow one that oscillates from one fixed point. The jigsaw is the most versatile of all saws and it is the preferred type for making shaped cuts. This is the only type that does not rely on a guide.
Band saws are stationary and sit on a workbench or stand. Like the jig saw they also have a narrow blade but it oscillates between 2 fixed points, and you offer up your job to the saw.
The chop saw also sits on a workbench. You position your work piece on the saw’s base plate and bring down a spring-loaded mechanical arm, which has a circular blade mounted to it, onto the piece. Once set up the chop saw can make the same cut again and again with little or no adjustment. Chop saws are only used for cross cuts.
Mitre saws extend the functionality of the chop saw.
What Types of Mitre Saw Are There?
Basic / Standard Mitre Saw
The basic mitre saw extends the capability of the chop saw with the introduction of a rotating sawing table. The table can turn more than 50 degrees to either side of the vertical and therefore allows vertical cross cuts to be made at both 90 degrees and other angles too. Setting the angle of rotation to 45 degrees provides the perfect setup for creating mitre joints and gives this extremely versatile cutting tool its famous name. Since the majority of mitre saws on the market are more advanced than this basic version (see below) prices for the basic version are very competitive if you are happy with the functionality just described.
Compound Mitre Saw
Compound mitre saws not only have a rotating saw table but also allow the arm’s angle of descent to be tilted away from the vertical, hence the name “compound”. The saw blade’s tilt can be to one or both sides. If it is to one side only the saw is described as “single bevel” and if it is to both then “double bevel”. A double bevelled compound mitre saw can perform 2 angled cuts without having to reposition the work piece. You can of course perform a double bevelled cut with a single bevel saw but you have to reposition the work piece the other way round. A compound mitre saw can only cut as far as the blade can reach.
Sliding Compound Mitre Saw
The sliding compound mitre saw overcomes the limited cutting width of basic and compound mitre saws. It allows the motor housing and blade to slide outwards in conjunction with extension arms, making longer cuts possible. The longer the extension arms the greater the width of cut. If you have a 2″ x 6″ work piece to cut and your saw blade has a 10″ diameter blade you cut the first 5″ or so with the saw head in place and then slide the head away from you to cut the remainder. If you did not have this sliding feature you would have to flip the work piece over, which becomes tiring over time. Therefore this saw is far more versatile than the non-sliding version but the longer arms do make it bulkier and heavier. The sliding mechanism itself also needs to take up more space behind the saw. And of course this feature does make the saw more expensive. The sliding function is only available on compound mitre saws, not basic mitre saws.
What is a Mitre Saw Used For?
As mentioned previously the mitre saw is the preferred saw for making cross cuts (against the grain). Once set up it can make straight cuts, angled mitre cuts, and single or double bevelled (tilted) cuts one or more times without needing to adjust the saw’s settings. Therefore it is incredibly versatile and great for jobs professional and DIY alike, indoors and out, such as trim work and framing, flooring, coving and mouldings, and general woodworking and furniture projects.
Main Components / Features
The motor is obviously one of the essential components of the mitre saw. Whether powered by mains of battery most mitre saws generate similar power for the same blade size (e.g for a 10″ blade a 1,500 to 2,000 input watt motor generates a no-load speed of 4,000 to 5,000 rpm).
The blade is probably the first feature you should consider when looking to purchase a mitre saw because the maximum cutting width you desire is directly determined by the diameter of its blade. This is effectively just less than half the blade’s diameter (i.e. the blade’s radius), unless you go for a sliding compound mitre saw, in which case that maximum cutting width can be more than doubled. So selecting a compound mitre saw with a larger blade could mean you avoid the expense of a sliding compound mitre saw. Common sized blades for mains powered mitre saws are 10″ (255 mm) and 8″ (200-210 mm) and 7-1/4″ (185 mm) for cordless versions. From a safety perspective you cannot use blades of different diameters on the same saw, and when purchasing new blades you must select a blade that has a higher RPM rating than the saw itself otherwise significant damage could occur to both the blade and you yourself.
Standard blades are made from steel and are used for cutting softer woods and plastic materials. HSS (high speed steel) blades are more resilient and used for cutting harder woods. Carbide-tipped (TCT) blades have their teeth reinforced with tungsten carbide and are the most durable. Those blades with a thin kerf (width) and the most teeth produce the cleanest cuts.
The most important safety feature of a mitre saw is the blade guard. It comprises a fixed upper moulding that covers the top part of the blade and a lower spring-loaded piece that pivots on the upper part. You lower the arm over the work piece and as it is being cut the guard rises. When the job is complete you raise the arm and the guard retracts to cover and protect the blade. In most cases the lower guard is transparent, providing you with greater visibility of the cutting process.
The round mitre saw table incorporates a central slot through which the blade is lowered after a cut has been made. The table also has a calibrated gauge around its circumference that rotates with the saw as you turn it and helps you set the angle of rotation. This includes notches or stops for common mitre angles (0, -22.5, -45, 90 +45, +22.5 degrees) into which the saw arm can be locked. Most tables also include a facility for locking in custom angle settings.
Fence and Clamps
All mitre saws have a fence mounted to the rear of the saw table and you position your work piece against it during the cutting operation. It therefore needs to be solid and sturdy. The fence is set at 90 degrees to the saw blade and can be adjusted back and forth. Many have measurements etched into them for extra precision. Some mitre saws have built-in clamps to help secure the work piece to the table and up against the fence.
These days electric brakes are commonplace on mitre saws. Powering off the trigger of a saw with an electric brake causes the electric current to reverse and the blade to come to a halt in around 2 seconds. Without an electric brake the blade would continue to spin for at least another 10 seconds. That 10 seconds could save an awful lot of damage!
Although not essential a laser guide is a very useful feature on a mitre saw. The laser projects a beam of light onto the work piece indicating exactly where the cut will take place. This is especially useful with a compound mitre saw when you trying to accurately position your work piece and set both mitre and bevel angles and you are looking for confirmation that your adjustments are correct. Of course this won’t affect the quality of the cut but at least the cut itself will be accurate.
Although most manufacturers state dust collection to be one of their mitre saw’s main features the reality is that the solution provided, a dust bag that attaches to a hose towards the back of the blade, is pretty inefficient and collects relatively little of the sawdust generated by the saw. This is mainly due to the generic design of the mitre saw itself. The only way to make the dust collection process more efficient is to connect the hose to an adaptor that hooks up to a vacuum, but that does involve more cost.
Safety Precautions and Using The Saw
The mitre saw is an incredibly versatile power tool. It can also be very dangerous if do not take into account basic safety precautions. In this section we’ll review the strategies and techniques you need to know to stay safe, both for you personally and when using the saw.
Safety – You!
In order to ensure your own safety make sure you are kitted out appropriately. Wear suitable work clothes or overalls and remove / tuck in / tie back anything loose, including your hair if necessary! Wear safety glasses, goggles or a face mask to protect your eyes from flying debris. Mitre saws are noisy – wear ear defenders to protect your ears. Wear a mask to avoid inhaling dust particles.
Get organised and check out your immediate surroundings. Clear away anything not related to the job in hand, particularly from the floor area that might cause you to trip up or lose your balance. If you are using a corded mitre saw make sure the cord is actually long enough and use an extension lead if necessary to allow the cord to trail well back beyond the saw. Clamp your saw to a bench or work surface and make sure it is secure.
Check over the saw
If you have not already done so read the instruction manual thoroughly! On corded saws check the cable is tightly gripped by the plug and there are no cracks visible. On cordless saws check the battery is fully charged and tightly held in place.
Turn your attention to the blade and make sure it is securely fitted and tightened on the saw’s arbor. The blade must be correct for the application, in terms of size, speed (speed is denoted on the blade itself and should be greater than the saw’s no-load rpm) and work piece being cut. The blade must not be damaged in any way (warped, chipped teeth etc) and needs to be as clean and sharp as possible for a precise cut.
The saw guard is next. Unplug the saw or remove the battery, make sure the lower guard can move freely, and the spring / pivoting mechanism that retracts the guard is not impeded in any way. Then check all the other moving parts are working correctly.
Test the saw
Test the on-off switch and the power supply. Turn the saw on, depress the trigger, wait for the blade to reach full speed, look along the blade and check it rotates true to the vertical, then release the trigger. Releasing the trigger should invoke the electric brake (assuming one is fitted) and the blade should come to rest in around 2 seconds. Hopefully all is good and you’re ready to go. If the saw doesn’t work for any reason and you have covered basic troubleshooting, get it inspected and repaired by a professional or better still replace it!
Basic sawing technique
Before using the saw just a few words on how to actually make a cut. To secure the work piece you can either use one hand to hold it firm against the fence (at the same time keeping your hand well away from the blade) or for larger pieces set them up against the fence and clamp them into place. Larger pieces may well need supporting away from the saw so use saw horses or a purpose built mitre saw stand with extendable supports. If appropriate set the mitre angle and bevel (if using a compound mitre saw) and if you are using a sliding compound mitre saw pull the housing all the way towards you before making the cut. Then clasp the handle firmly, lift the blade guard, depress the trigger, wait for the blade to get up to full speed and plunge the arm slowly and steadily down into the wood. When the cut is complete release the trigger and wait for the blade to stop spinning before raising it up again. Only then retrieve your newly cut pieces from the sawing table.
Make some test cuts
The mitre saw is designed to make precise crosscuts over and over, ideally without you having to readjust the basic settings. However it does make sense to confirm the blade, sawing table and fence accurately align before you begin work, and the best way to do this is by making some test cuts. There are several ways to do this. One way is to place an offcut against the fence and saw vertically through the middle. Then flip one of the cut pieces and offer up the newly cut edges against each other. If the cut is accurate they should fit together perfectly. If not you will need to make the necessary adjustments. You can use the same technique to check both 45 degree angled mitre and bevel cuts. Now you are ready to begin work!
When you have finished work disconnect the saw, and when it is cool clean the work area of debris. An air compressor is the best way to remove loose sawdust and any residue can be removed with a damp rag. Remove any coagulated debris around the blade with a blunt instrument and free up any other moving parts with some oil. Give the saw a final wipe down and store it away if you can.
Mitre Saw Buying Advice
Corded or Cordless
Buying corded or cordless is usually the biggest decision you have to make when looking for the best mitre saw for your needs. Cordless are that much more versatile and have pretty much caught up with corded in terms of power and durability, but they are significantly more expensive. Plus you need to pay for a charger and at least 2 batteries that have to be kept fully charged to keep you up and running through a working day. No problem with power supply if corded of course, assuming you are always going to be near the power source, but make sure the power lead is of decent length (although you can also use an extension lead). Our selection of budget mitre saws are all corded.
Corded saws with 10″ blades run at around 15 amps and those with 8″ blades around 10 amps. Most cordless mitre saws are powered with an 18 Volt battery. Both produce no-load speeds of around 4,000-5,000 rpm, more than adequate for most day to day tasks. People might say a saw is under-powered but that will be because they are using the wrong blade / material combination.
The weight of a mitre saw depends heavily on its type. Basic mitre saws will weigh less than compound mitre saws and compound mitre saws will weigh less than sliding compound mitre saws. Of course larger more powerful saws with bigger blades will also be heavier. Cordless saws with higher capacity batteries also weigh more. Don’t forget the larger and heavier the saw the more difficult it is to manoeuvre and store.
We’ve already discussed blades in detail above. The saw is already supplied with a general purpose blade and you will only ever need to change it when it loses its sharpness or you require a special purpose blade. If and when you do decide to change it make sure it is fit for purpose and don’t compromise on quality or price. Carbide blades are the best option.
Nice to have features
The most important nice to have features are an electric brake, a laser guide, a lock off lever (so the saw cannot be switched on by accident) and a long warranty – 2 years is good, 3 years is better! Of course not all budget mitre saws will have all these features, but they will definitely have all the basic features we have been discussing earlier.
As with most power tools paying more will get you better quality, produce a better end result and last you longer. But you need to marry that up against other obvious practicalities such as your budget, what you will use your mitre saw for and how often you will actually use it. These days basic mitre saws have pretty much been superseded by compound mitre saws – so most mitre saws on the market can cut angles and bevels. You need to consider whether you want to pay more for a sawing arm that can tilt both left and right (double bevel) and whether you want to cut larger work pieces in one operation rather than two (sliding compound mitre saw). Again the budget mitre saws selected here will serve you perfectly well for most basic mitre saw functions.