In this guide we’ll take a look at the best mitre saws for the UK market.
We’ve compared power, blade quality, weight, and cost
to give you our top recommendations.

What Is The Best Mitre Saw?

  • Features
  • Max cutting width 12½” (320mm)
  • Double bevel
  • Multipurpose cutting blade for wood and metal
  • Cost
Rating
9.2/10
  • Features
  • Great value for money
  • Multipurpose cutting blade for wood and metal
  • 3 year guarantee
  • Cost
Rating
9.1/10
  • Features
  • High quality powerful saw at a good price
  • Multipurpose cutting blade for wood and metal
  • 3 year guarantee
  • Cost
Rating
8.9/10
  • Features
  • Powerful yet compact and lightweight
  • High quality build
  • Good combination of laser shadow line and LED worklight for accuracy
  • Cost
Rating
8.7/10
  • Features
  • Robust and well-engineered
  • Soft start and electric brake
  • 3 year guarantee
  • Cost
Rating
8.6/10
  • Features
  • Powerful motor with reduced noise
  • Part of Ryobi’s One+ range
  • Attractive price
  • Cost
Rating
8.5/10
  • Features
  • Fantastic build quality for the price
  • Laser guide
  • 3 year guarantee
  • Cost
Rating
8.2/10

More Detailed Mitre Saw Reviews

Evolution Rage3-DB Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

Our number one recommendation for the best mitre saw for the UK market is the Evolution Rage3-DB. This mitre saw has all the bells and whistles!

All the saws we recommend are compound mitre saws but this one is a sliding version and it has the double bevel feature so the saw arm can be tilted both left and right to 45 degrees.

This is a very well-built saw with a robust casting. It has a powerful 2,000 Watt motor with a high-torque gearbox that powers a 10″ (255 mm) blade. The sliding capability extends the maximum cutting width to 12½” (320 mm), well over twice that of a non-sliding version with the same blade size, and it has extension bars to support longer workpieces.

The maximum dimensions for cutting are tabulated below:

Max Width x Max Depth (255 mm (10″) diameter blade)

Straight Cut          90° x 90°   :            320 x 80 mm

Bevel Cut               90° x 45°   :            320 x 40 mm

Mitre Cut               45° x 90°   :            225 x 80 mm

Compound Cut     45° x 45°   :            225 x 40 mm

Other nice features of this saw include the laser cutting guide with its own on-off switch and an extra button to release the saw guard. But one of the main reasons behind the success of the Evolution range of power tools is its patented multipurpose cutting blade and its ‘one saw and one blade cuts all’ slogan (not strictly true because Evolution supply other diamond-tipped blades for cutting tiles, stone, concrete and brick)!

The blade supplied with the mitre saws of Evolution’s competitors tends to be a coarser general purpose wood-cutting blade that requires (purchasing and) swapping out for more specific applications. Evolution scores heavily on this point with the supplied blade suitable for cutting not only wood, but also aluminium and mild steel. The blade’s technology also means hardly any heat or burr is generated when cutting through metal or steel. The saw comes with a 3 year guarantee and at a very respectable price – it’s one of the best mitre saws around.

Lumberjack 10” Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

Our number two mitre saw recommendation is the Lumberjack SCMS254DB and comes a close second to our number one choice. This sliding compound mitre saw offers great value for money. At the price you would think that some features or technical specification is compromised in some way but that is just not the case. Like our number one choice it even comes with a double bevelled sawing arm (the arm can tilt both ways, saving you having to flip your workpiece over).

The build quality is excellent with a solid casting and aluminium base that adds extra strength to the saw, making it feel very sturdy even though it weighs a relatively light 16.5 kg. This is also a powerful saw with the 2,000 Watt motor delivering a no-load speed of 4,500 RPM to power the 10″ (255 mm) blade, more than adequate for most wood-cutting jobs. The angle and depth adjustors are well made and ensure accurate settings can be made and this is enhanced by the precision laser guide. Since this is a sliding compound mitre saw workpieces up to 12″ (305 mm) in width can be cut without turning the piece over.

Here are the maximum cutting dimensions for straight, bevel and mitre cuts:

Max Width x Max Depth (255 mm (10″) diameter blade)

Straight Cut          90° x 90°   :            305 x 89 mm

Bevel Cut               90° x 45°   :            305 x 38 mm

Mitre Cut               45° x 90°   :            216 x 89 mm

Compound Cut     45° x 45°   :            216 x 38 mm

For the serious DIYer or professional this value for money mitre saw that is well worth considering. If you are on a budget, this might be the best mitre saw to suit your needs.

Evolution R255SMS+ Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

Not far behind our number one selection is the closely related Evolution R255SMS+. The main difference between these 2 Evolution mitre saws is that this version does not have the double bevel feature (where the saw arm can be tilted both left and right to 45 degrees), but it is typically over £60 cheaper. Other than that the 2 saws incorporate the same 2000 Watt motor (assuming a 230 volt power supply), use the same blade (10”, 255 mm diameter) and share similar features (as described earlier), and not least Evolution’s proprietary multi-material cutting technology.  

The maximum cutting dimensions for straight, bevel and mitre cuts are as follows:

Max Width x Max Depth (210 mm (8¼”) diameter blade)

Straight Cut          90° x 90°   :            300 x 80 mm

Bevel Cut               90° x 45°   :            300 x 45 mm

Mitre Cut               45° x 90°   :            210 x 80 mm

Compound Cut     45° x 45°   :            210 x 45 mm

If the double bevel capability is not a limiting feature then the R255SMS+ is a very viable alternative to the Rage 3-DB

Dewalt DWS774 Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

Our number 4 recommendation for the best mitre saw for the UK market is the Dewalt DWS774 – a top of the range sliding compound mitre saw from Dewalt, one of the brands most-favoured by professionals.

This is a high quality tool, well-made, strong and sturdy with strong, accurately machined aluminium base and fences for extra stability and precision. 

One of the main features of this saw is its compact footprint. It weighs just 12 kg, making it one of the lightest quality corded mitre saws around, and the compact rail design, head lock function, and carry side handles make it very easy to both set up and use in a smaller workplace and move around in general. 

There are positive stops for both mitre and bevel cuts and larger materials are supported by extending rails and dual fences that work in conjunction with each other. A laser light casts a shadow line for aligning the blade and an LED worklight illuminates the workpiece to ensure accuracy whilst cutting.

The maximum cutting dimensions for straight, bevel and mitre cuts are as follows:

Max Width x Max Depth (216 mm (8½”) diameter blade)

Straight Cut          90° x 90°   :           250 x 62 mm

Bevel Cut               90° x 45°   :           265 x 48 mm

Mitre Cut               45° x 90°   :           177 x 62 mm

Compound Cut     45° x 45°   :           190 x 48 mm

If you are looking for a quality mitre saw that is both lightweight and powerful this tool will do the job!

Makita MLS100 Compound Mitre Saw

The Makita MLS100 is the best mitre saw available if you do not want the sliding function. There are a number of reasons why you may not want it – you don’t intend to make particularly wide crosscuts too often (if you do you just flip your workpiece), when the saw is mounted you don’t have or need the extra space at the back of the saw to accommodate the sliding mechanism, you don’t want a saw heavier than you need, and you don’t particularly want to pay more for a feature you don’t use very often.

Makita is a very popular make of power tool particularly amongst professionals – the MLS100 is a robust, well engineered tool, yet compact and lightweight (14.7 kg) and it comes with Makita’s 3 year guarantee. It is also double insulated, meaning the power supply does not have to be earthed. The 1500 Watt motor generates a no-load speed of 4,200 RPM and drives a 10″ (255 mm) blade. The fence and clamp are very solid and the mitre guide is easy to read and accurate with stops at 0,15, 22.5, 31.6 and 45 degrees.

Here are the maximum cutting dimensions for straight, bevel and mitre cuts:

Max Width x Max Depth (255 mm (10″) diameter blade)

Straight Cut          90° x 90°   :            130 x 75 mm

Bevel Cut               90° x 45°   :            130 x 48 mm

Mitre Cut               45° x 90°   :            90 x 75 mm

Compound Cut     45° x 45°   :            90 x 48 mm

Sturdy extension arms support larger workpieces and the Makita dust collection system is more effective than other makes. Other nice features include a transparent blade guard to improve visibility of the cutting line, a soft start and an electric brake. There is much to like about this compound mitre saw.

Ryobi EMS190DCL One+ Cordless Compound Mitre Saw

Cordless compound mitre saws are relatively new onto the market and therefore quite expensive compared to corded versions, but Ryobi have successfully addressed that issue with the competitively-priced EMS190DCL.

The Ryobi EMS190DCL One+ Cordless Compound Mitre Saw generates more power than many corded saws with the blade running at up to 4,500 RPM but you would not necessarily notice this as noise and vibration levels are much reduced with this saw. A laser guide ensures cuts can be made accurately, with maximum cutting dimensions for straight, bevel and mitre cuts as follows:

Max Width x Max Depth (190 mm (7½”) diameter blade)

Straight Cut          90° x 90°   :            114 x 44 mm

Bevel Cut               90° x 45°   :            114 x 19 mm

Mitre Cut               45° x 90°   :            82 x 44 mm

Compound Cut     45° x 45°   :            82 x 19 mm

This is a versatile saw that is compact and lightweight (7.1 kg without a battery) with a small footprint and comfortable to operate thanks to anti-vibration handles. The EMS190DCL is also one of over 100 cordless power tool products that belong to Ryobi’s popular One+ range. This suite of tools all use Ryobi’s 18 Volt Lithium Ion family of batteries (and chargers), so it only becomes necessary to purchase one or two batteries for effectively powering a whole range of DIY and gardening tools.

Metabo KGS216M Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

The Metabo KSS216M is another sliding compound mitre saw that comes at a great price! It doesn’t have a double bevel and at 8½” (216 mm) the blade is slightly smaller than the Lumberjack’s but the Metabo company does have an excellent reputation for producing high quality well-engineered products.

The KGS216M is no exception and it has a robust die-cast aluminium design yet it is compact and light enough (weighing 13.5 kgs) that it can be carried (carefully) using its ergonomically designed handle with one hand. It has a relatively quiet 1,500 Watt motor that can generate a no-load speed of 5,000 RPM and large workpieces both in width and length can be accommodated by the sliding bars and adjustable and removable table extensions.

Here are the maximum cutting dimensions for straight, bevel and mitre cuts:

Max Width x Max Depth (216 mm (8½”) diameter blade)

Straight Cut          90° x 90°   :            305 x 65 mm

Bevel Cut               90° x 45°   :            305 x 36 mm

Mitre Cut               45° x 90°   :            205 x 65 mm

Compound Cut     45° x 45°   :            205 x 36 mm

The piece can be secured against a high sliding fence with a removable clamp. Mitre adjustments are made using the calibrated protractor scale with stop notches for common angles, and positioned exactly against the fence using its etched measurement scale. The depth stop is also adjustable and there is an adjustable bolt for cutting trenches. A laser guide works in conjunction with an LED worklight to ensure you have the correct cutting line and clearest visibility of the workpiece during cutting.

Metabo provides a 3 year guarantee, confirming confidence in their product and at the price it is hard to go wrong!

What is a Mitre Saw?

How does a Mitre Saw differ from other types of power saw?

A mitre saw is one of several different types of power saw. The other main types are the table saw, circular saw, band saw and jigsaw. Let’s have a quick look at the basic differences between these saws.

The table saw is the largest type of power saw and you offer up your job to a circular spinning blade. The largest varieties are stationary– the cabinet saw is literally housed in a cabinet and the blade protrudes through the table top. Smaller table saws are portable and come on stands or are benchtop versions. These saws can accommodate large work pieces and are best for rip cuts.

Circular saws are portable and extremely versatile. They can perform all cuts, but unlike the table saw you offer up the saw’s spinning circular blade to the workpiece.

Jigsaws are also portable and versatile, but instead of using a circular blade they have a narrow one that oscillates from one fixed point. The jigsaw is the most versatile of all saws and it is the preferred type for making shaped cuts. This is the only type that does not rely on a guide.

Band saws are stationary and sit on a workbench or stand. Like the jig saw they also have a narrow blade but it oscillates between 2 fixed points, and you offer up your job to the saw.

The chop saw also sits on a workbench. You position your workpiece on the saw’s baseplate and bring down a spring-loaded mechanical arm, which has a circular blade mounted to it, onto the piece. Once set up the chop saw can make the same cut again and again with little or no adjustment. Chop saws are only used for cross cuts.

Mitre saws extend the functionality of the chop saw.

What Types of Mitre Saw Are There?

Basic / Standard Mitre Saw

The basic mitre saw extends the capability of the chop saw with the introduction of a rotating sawing table. The table can turn more than 50 degrees to either side of the vertical and therefore allows vertical cross cuts to be made at both 90 degrees and other angles too. Setting the angle of rotation to 45 degrees provides the perfect setup for creating mitre joints and gives this extremely versatile cutting tool its famous name. Since the majority of mitre saws on the market are more advanced than this basic version (see below) prices for the basic version are very competitive if you are happy with the functionality just described.

Compound Mitre Saw

Compound mitre saws not only have a rotating saw table but also allow the arm’s angle of descent to be tilted away from the vertical, hence the name “compound”. The saw blade’s tilt can be to one or both sides. If it is to one side only the saw is described as  “single bevel” and if it is to both then “double bevel”. A double bevelled compound mitre saw can perform 2 angled cuts without having to reposition the workpiece. You can of course perform a double bevelled cut with a single bevel saw but you have to reposition the workpiece the other way round. A compound mitre saw can only cut as far as the blade can reach.

Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

The sliding compound mitre saw overcomes the limited cutting width of basic and compound mitre saws. It allows the motor housing and blade to slide outwards in conjunction with extension arms, making longer cuts possible. The longer the extension arms the greater the width of cut. If you have a 2″ x 6″ workpiece to cut and your saw blade has a 10″ diameter blade you cut the first 5″ or so with the saw head in place and then slide the head away from you to cut the remainder. If you did not have this sliding feature you would have to flip the workpiece over, which becomes tiring over time. Therefore this saw is far more versatile than the non-sliding version but the longer arms do make it bulkier and heavier. The sliding mechanism itself also needs to take up more space behind the saw. And of course this feature does make the saw more expensive. The sliding function is only available on compound mitre saws, not basic mitre saws.

What is a Mitre Saw Used For?

As mentioned previously the mitre saw is the preferred saw for making cross cuts (against the grain). Once set up it can make straight cuts, angled mitre cuts, and single or double bevelled (tilted) cuts one or more times without needing to adjust the saw’s settings. Therefore it is incredibly versatile and great for jobs professional and DIY alike, indoors and out, such as trim work and framing, flooring, coving and mouldings, and general woodworking and furniture projects.

 

Main Components / Features

 

Motor

The motor is obviously one of the essential components of the mitre saw. Whether powered by mains of battery most mitre saws generate similar power for the same blade size (e.g for a 10″ blade a 1,500 to 2,000 input watt motor generates a no-load speed of 4,000 to 5,000 RPM).

Blade

The blade is probably the first feature you should consider when looking to purchase a mitre saw because the maximum cutting width you desire is directly determined by the diameter of its blade.  This is effectively just less than half the blade’s diameter (i.e. the blade’s radius), unless you go for a sliding compound mitre saw, in which case that maximum cutting width can be more than doubled. So selecting a compound mitre saw with a larger blade could mean you avoid the expense of a sliding compound mitre saw. Common sized blades for mains powered mitre saws are 10″ (255 mm) and 8″ (200-210 mm) and 7-1/4″ (185 mm) for cordless versions. From a safety perspective you cannot use blades of different diameters on the same saw, and when purchasing new blades you must select a blade that has a higher RPM rating than the saw itself otherwise significant damage could occur to both the blade and you yourself.

Standard blades are made from steel and are used for cutting softer woods and plastic materials. HSS (high speed steel) blades are more resilient and used for cutting harder woods. Carbide-tipped (TCT) blades have their teeth reinforced with tungsten carbide and are the most durable. Those blades with a thin kerf (width) and the most teeth produce the cleanest cuts.

Blade Guard

The most important safety feature of a mitre saw is the blade guard. It comprises a fixed upper moulding that covers the top part of the blade and a lower spring-loaded piece that pivots on the upper part. You lower the arm over the workpiece and as it is being cut the guard rises. When the job is complete you raise the arm and the guard retracts to cover and protect the blade. In most cases the lower guard is transparent, providing you with greater visibility of the cutting process.

Table

The round mitre saw table incorporates a central slot through which the blade is lowered after a cut has been made. The table also has a calibrated gauge around its circumference that rotates with the saw as you turn it and helps you set the angle of rotation. This includes notches or stops for common mitre angles (0, -22.5, -45, 90 +45, +22.5 degrees) into which the saw arm can be locked. Most tables also include a facility for locking in custom angle settings.

Fence and Clamps

All mitre saws have a fence mounted to the rear of the saw table and you position your workpiece against it during the cutting operation. It therefore needs to be solid and sturdy. The fence is set at 90 degrees to the saw blade and can be adjusted back and forth. Many have measurements etched into them for extra precision. Some mitre saws have built-in clamps to help secure the workpiece to the table and up against the fence.

Electric Brake

These days electric brakes are commonplace on mitre saws. Powering off the trigger of a saw with an electric brake causes the electric current to reverse and the blade to come to a halt in around 2 seconds. Without an electric brake the blade would continue to spin for at least another 10 seconds. That 10 seconds could save an awful lot of damage!

Laser

Although not essential a laser guide is a very useful feature on a mitre saw. The laser projects a beam of light onto the workpiece indicating exactly where the cut will take place. This is especially useful with a compound mitre saw when you trying to accurately position your workpiece and set both mitre and bevel angles and you are looking for confirmation that your adjustments are correct. Of course this won’t affect the quality of the cut but at least the cut itself will be accurate.

Dust collector

Although most manufacturers state dust collection to be one of their mitre saw’s main features the reality is that the solution provided, a dust bag that attaches to a hose towards the back of the blade, is pretty inefficient and collects relatively little of the sawdust generated by the saw. This is mainly due to the generic design of the mitre saw itself. The only way to make the dust collection process more efficient is to connect the hose to an adaptor that hooks up to a vacuum, but that does involve more cost.

Safety Precautions and Using The Saw

The mitre saw is an incredibly versatile power tool. It can also be very dangerous if do not take into account basic safety precautions. In this section we’ll review the strategies and techniques you need to know to stay safe, both for you personally and when using the saw.

Safety – You!

In order to ensure your own safety make sure you are kitted out appropriately. Wear suitable work clothes or overalls and remove / tuck in / tie back anything loose, including your hair if necessary!  Wear safety glasses, goggles or a face mask to protect your eyes from flying debris. Mitre saws are noisy – wear ear defenders to protect your ears. Wear a mask to avoid inhaling dust particles.

Work surroundings

Get organised and check out your immediate surroundings. Clear away anything not related to the job in hand, particularly from the floor area that might cause you to trip up or lose your balance. If you are using a corded mitre saw make sure the cord is actually long enough and use an extension lead if necessary to allow the cord to trail well back beyond the saw. Clamp your saw to a bench or work surface and make sure it is secure.

Check over the saw

If you have not already done so read the instruction manual thoroughly! On corded saws check the cable is tightly gripped by the plug and there are no cracks visible. On cordless saws check the battery is fully charged and tightly held in place.

Turn your attention to the blade and make sure it is securely fitted and tightened on the saw’s arbor. The blade must be correct for the application, in terms of size, speed (speed is denoted on the blade itself and should be greater than the saw’s no-load RPM) and work piece being cut. The blade must not be damaged in any way (warped, chipped teeth etc) and needs to be as clean and sharp as possible for a precise cut.

The saw guard is next. Unplug the saw or remove the battery, make sure the lower guard can move freely, and the spring / pivoting mechanism that retracts the guard is not impeded in any way. Then check all the other moving parts are working correctly.

Test the saw

Test the on-off switch and the power supply. Turn the saw on, depress the trigger, wait for the blade to reach full speed, look along the blade and check it rotates true to the vertical, then release the trigger. Releasing the trigger should invoke the electric brake (assuming one is fitted) and the blade should come to rest in around 2 seconds. Hopefully all is good and you’re ready to go. If the saw doesn’t work for any reason and you have covered basic troubleshooting, get it inspected and repaired by a professional or better still replace it!

Basic sawing technique

Before using the saw just a few words on how to actually make a cut. To secure the workpiece you can either use one hand to hold it firm against the fence (at the same time keeping your hand well away from the blade) or for larger pieces set them up against the fence and clamp them into place. Larger pieces may well need supporting away from the saw so use saw horses or a purpose built mitre saw stand with extendable supports. If appropriate set the mitre angle and bevel (if using a compound mitre saw) and if you are using a sliding compound mitre saw pull the housing all the way towards you before making the cut. Then clasp the handle firmly, lift the blade guard, depress the trigger, wait for the blade to get up to full speed and plunge the arm slowly and steadily down into the wood. When the cut is complete release the trigger and wait for the blade to stop spinning before raising it up again. Only then retrieve your newly cut pieces from the sawing table.

Make some test cuts

The mitre saw is designed to make precise crosscuts over and over, ideally without you having to readjust the basic settings. However it does make sense to confirm the blade, sawing table and fence accurately align before you begin work, and the best way to do this is by making some test cuts. There are several ways to do this. One way is to place an offcut against the fence  and saw vertically through the middle. Then flip one of the cut pieces and offer up the newly cut edges against each other. If the cut is accurate they should fit together perfectly. If not you will need to make the necessary adjustments. You can use the same technique to check both 45 degree angled mitre and bevel cuts. Now you are ready to begin work!

Finishing Off

When you have finished work disconnect the saw, and when it is cool clean the work area of debris. An air compressor is the best way to remove loose sawdust and any residue can be removed with a damp rag. Remove any coagulated debris around the blade with a blunt instrument and free up any other moving parts with some oil. Give the saw a final wipe down and store it away if you can.

Mitre Saw Buying Advice

Corded or Cordless

Buying corded or cordless is usually the biggest decision you have to make when looking for the best mitre saw for your needs. Cordless are that much more versatile and have pretty much caught up with corded in terms of power and durability, but they are more expensive. Plus you need to pay for a charger and at least 2 batteries that have to be kept fully charged to keep you up and running through a working day.  No problem with power supply if corded of course, assuming you are always going to be near the power source, but make sure the power lead is of decent length (although you can also use an extension lead).  If you do go cordless try and purchase from a manufacturer that produces a range of cordless power tools that can all share the same battery, and that will go some way to justifying the extra cost.

Power

Corded saws with 10″ blades run at around 15 amps and those with 8″ blades around 10 amps. Most cordless mitre saws are powered with an 18 Volt battery. Both produce no-load speeds of around 4,000-5,000 RPM, more than adequate for most day to day tasks. People might say a saw is underpowered but that will be because they are using the wrong blade / material combination.

Weight

The weight of a mitre saw depends heavily on its type. Basic mitre saws will weigh less than compound mitre saws and compound mitre saws will weigh less than sliding compound mitre saws. Of course larger more powerful saws with bigger blades will also be heavier. Cordless saws with higher capacity batteries also weigh more. Don’t forget the larger and heavier the saw the more difficult it is to manoeuvre and store.

Blade

We’ve already discussed blades in detail above. The saw is already supplied with a general purpose blade and you will only ever need to change it when it loses its sharpness or you require a special purpose blade. If and when you do decide to change it make sure it is fit for purpose and don’t compromise on quality or price. Carbide blades are the best option.

Nice to have features

The most important nice to have features are an electric brake, a laser guide, a lock off lever (so the saw cannot be switched on by accident) and a long warranty – 2 years is good, 3 years is better!

Summary

As with most power tools paying more will get you better quality, produce a better end result and last you longer. But you need to marry that up against other obvious practicalities such as your budget, what you will use your mitre saw for and how often you will actually use it. These days basic mitre saws have pretty much been superseded by compound mitre saws – so most mitre saws on the market can cut angles and bevels. You need to consider whether you want to pay more for a sawing arm that can tilt both left and right (double bevel) and whether you want to cut larger workpieces in one operation rather than two (sliding compound mitre saw). Best of luck!